Big wave surfer Brock Little has died. The 48-year-old had stage-4 cancer.
He passed away Thursday surrounded by family and friends, according to a close friend.
KHON2’s Rob DeMello had the opportunity to sit down with Little last week. You can view that report above, or click here to view the original post.
Twenty-six years ago, Little rode one of the most iconic waves in the history of the famed Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational — a 25-foot bomb that gave him a second-place finish in big wave surfing’s most prestigious event.
He was also an author, and an award-winning stuntman for many Hollywood productions.
Though unable to surf when the contest was anticipated last week, Little was still listed as an alternate. The Eddie was ultimately called off due to inadequate conditions.
Last week, Little opened up to KHON2 about his battle with cancer: “Walking up the stairs, it’s a headache, and that’s a bummer. Just losing the strength is what’s a bummer for me.”
The disease led him to hospice care at his parents’ Pupukea home, though he never lost his drive to live life to the fullest.
“Basically having cancer and being positive isn’t because hey, everything’s going to get cured or I think I’m going to be this wonder boy. It’s because of my life, and it’s because of the life I’ve lived,” Little said.