Honolulu (KHON2) – Author and Travel writer Paul Theroux is sharing his inspiration about the Hawaii surf culture novel ‘Under the Wave at Waimea.’ UNDER THE WAVE AT WAIMEA, which is a novel set in Hawaii inspired by surf culture.
The trailer of the upcoming Apple TV series, The Mosquito Coast, is based off Paul’s book, Mosquito Coast and stars his nephew, actor Justin Theroux.
“I started out as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Africa in 1963 and have been in many countries since,” says Theroux. “I came to Hawaii after a lot of travel, visiting a woman I fell in love with, and married; and after that I fell in love with Hawaii, and have been here ever since more than 30 years.”
Theroux has lived on the North Shore of Oahu for 30 years and lived among “water men” and “water women” – surfers, swimmers, paddlers. “I’ve been inspired by the beauty of the ‘aina and the majesty of the ocean, and the stories of the people I’ve known here, amazing stories,” says Theroux. “Some I put into a previous novel “Hotel Honolulu,” but this novel “Under the Wave at Waimea” describes the drama and the culture I’m most acquainted with.”
Theroux adds, “I paddle an OC1 – single person outrigger, sometimes surfing the bumps. But big wave surfing is dramatic and exciting and seems to me often a metaphor for life, the way we are faced by big waves and need to find a way to surf them gracefully and survive.”
Next year Theroux will publish a book of short stories, a number of them set in Hawaii.